Showing posts with label iso digital photography wiki. Show all posts
Showing posts with label iso digital photography wiki. Show all posts

Sunday, 19 September 2010

Iso Digital Photography

1
iso digital photography
What does ISO (in DIGITAL photography) means?

Hi,

I've lately being interested in the 'advanced' photography.
I know what is the shutter speed (the amount time that the camera lets the light get inside the photo).
On my camera (SONY DSC S70) I've noticed that the ISO is always 100, but the shutter speed changes.

I'm about to buy a new digital camera, and I'd like to know what ISO stands for, and why in higher ISO there's lots of noise, what is the ultimate ISO for photographing in particular situations (close-up nature, buildings, moving objects (you're taking a train and photographing out of the window)).

I payed my attention to Panasonic Lumix DMC-FZ50 (new model should come out soon), if you got another suggestion (price should be upto 1,000 including the lens ((optical zoom should be x12 or more)).

Thank you freaking very much!
Arcady


ISO, in the photographic sense, is a standard measure of light sensitivity for your imaging medium. There are actually TWO standards to speak of (and before ISO became *the* standard, there were *other* standards, like ASA...but let's not get sidetracked). Folks will always refer to "film speed," which is a reference to the ISO standard for light sensitivity in *film* imaging, which technically not the right definition to refer to anymore. Actually these days, most people refer to *digital imaging* ISO, which is similar, but different than film ISO. The term itself--ISO--It's really a shortened reference to the International Organization for Standardization's, which documents hundreds of standards, not just film speed and digital still camera exposure index standards.

ISO earned the name "film speed" because a film emulsion that is more sensitive to light would require less exposure time to capture an image (or alternatively, a smaller aperture). A film that took less time to expose a shot was considered a "faster" film, hence, a higher ISO rating. Faster films were useful to shorten the exposure time necessary to catch low-light shots. But a downside to those film stock was that the grain of the emulsion was rather noticable in development--literally, bigger fatter crystals vs. slower film emulsions. You would get grainy pictures. If you ever shot an old b&W 3200ISO film, you would remember how grainy the images were compared to the same image shot with an ISO100 film.

The digital photography equivalent ISO standard is actually an entirely separate set of ISO standards. But it serves the same purpose--a method for assigning and identifying ISO standard speed ratings, ISO standard output sensitivity values, and recommended exposure index values, for digital still cameras. The ISO rating says that a given photosensor array, must be able to produce a particular image quality for a manufacturer to be able to say that it takes images at that ISO rating (technically called a "digital still camera exposure index").

Unlike film, which is capable of working at only one ISO rating, photosensors are capable of operating at various ISO sensitivity ratings because their output signal can be electronically amplified. Is your sensor actually "becoming more sensitive to light?" No. You can't change a sensor's native sensitivity. You're simply turning up it's output signal, like you would turn up your radio if you could barely hear the station broadcast. So, when you set a digital camera to take pictures at an ISO1600 setting instead of ISO100, you're telling it to amp up the weaker signal so that it will still produce an image of a particular light intensity given a specific amount of incoming light.

But here's the key for you...just like film speed ISO, photosensor ISO loses image quality when you force the photosensors to work at at higher sensitivities and with less light.

The root cause isn't emulsion grain (as it is in film ISO's problems), but signal noise. Since you have less light to work with, the camera tries to "turn up the volume" to reach higher ISO sensativities, as if you were trying to hear a very quiet song over your radio. The "image signal" becomes more and more difficult to distinguish from the "static," or noise. You'll see mottled patchwork of variations in the color of a blue sky, for example, when in real life, the sky is a smooth blue color. That's image noise, and it's significantly more noticable in higher ISO settings.

There's the crux of your answer.

When should you put it in high ISO?

If photodocumenting reality is your objective, the answer is simple: as seldom as you possibly can. Keep the ISO as low as possible to avoid unnecessary noise. This, of course, is only an issue when you're trying for low-light shots without flash. You'll find that in brightly lit scenes, or when using a flash, you can always stick to ISO100 or ISO80 (some cameras go as low as ISO 50). But when the lights dim, and you have an artistic preference for not using flash, that's when you'll have to start pushing the ISO up. What happens is that the shutter speeds start to get so long that you can't keep the subject from blurring in the picture. That's when you know that you're going to have to push the ISO up. If your subject is inanimate (doesn't move), then you can avoid pushing ISO up by putting your camera on a tripod, and use those longer shutterspeeds to get more light in the camera. But if your subject is moving, then you'll have no alternative but 1) push ISO up, or 2) use a flash. If you use a flash, you'll change the artistic impression of the shot. If you push the ISO up, you'll concede image quality. Both are a mixed bag. One thing you could do if you had the option, is switch to a camera/lens that is capable of wider aperture settings, letting in more light. Lenses that can stop down to f2.0 or less are highly sought after for it's ability to catch images in low light without going up to a noisy ISO.


There is one camera company (currently) that is changing the relationship between noise and higher ISO. To get to the higher ISO indexes, instead of just turning up the volume on a regular sensor, Fuji has put the work into developing a more sensitive sensor. Somebody smart is working at that company. They've been blowing away competition with their Super CCD sensor, by getting very low noise in high ISO shots, and as far as sensor technology goes, theirs is the best sensor out there to date. Personally, I hope to see other manufacturers follow its lead.


One last note regarding noise, and photography with high-ISO. It can be argued that *some* noise is not only an acceptable part of imaging, but can lend character that can add to an image's artistic qualities rather than detract. Would old world-war II era photographs posess quite as much nostalgia if they didn't have that grainy texture? That sepia tone? That point is of course debatable ad nauseum, when imaging steps away from photodocumentation, and into photography as an art form.


Digital Photography 101- Using Aperture, Shutter Speed, ISO, and White Balance - Part 2 of 2









iso digital photography5
iso digital photography5

Thursday, 8 October 2009

Iso Digital Photography

1
iso digital photography
What is the ISO and FSTOP on my digital camera do?

I am in a photography class and I have to learn how to adjust my ISO and my FSTOP, but I have no idea what those are and how to use them and manuever them to make the best picture. Does any one know what they are and how to work them?


First of all, talk to your instructor. If you're instructor can't explain the concepts to you, then get your money back and take a different class.

ISO stands for International Organization for Standardization (http://www.iso.org/iso/home.htm ). As this relates to photography, it deals with film speed. ISO film speeds are standard for the industry, so that a film make by Kodak, Agfa, Ilford, Fuji, etc, that's rated ISO 100 will perform similarly in all cameras. ISO 100 defines the degree of light sensativity of the film. The higher the ISO value, the faster the film. The faster the film, the lower the level of lighting need for a proper exposure.

ISO 200 requires half the light of ISO 100, or it is twice as sensitivity. There is a trade off. The higher the ISO, the coarser the grain of the emulsion, but that's the subject of another post.

With film, once you load a certain ISO into the camera, you set the film speed dial to what ever ISO number on the film and leave it.

With digital, you aren't using film speed per se, but rather a film speed equivilent. When you adjust the ISO number on a digital camera, what you're doing is changing the sensitivity of your digital sensor. You want to set you're ISO as low as possible because you start getting digital noise above a certain ISO everl. Basically the pixels start showing additional colors.

F/ stop or f/ number is a ratio that is figured by dividing the focal length of the lens (again another discussion) by the effective diameter of the lens. The effective diameter is controlled by the aperture (or lens opening).

If you have a 50mm lens with a lens opening of 10mm your f/ number (or f/ stop) would be 50/10=5, which would be written f/5. On the same lens, an aperture (lens opening) of 25mm would be 50/25=2, written f/2. An aperture of 5mm would be f/10 (50/5=10)

As you can see, the wider the aperture or lens opening, the small the f/ number.

As for adjusting your f/ stop, you will find either a ring on the lens with numbers, such as 2.8 / 4 / 5.6 / 8 / 11 / 16 / 22 etc. This ring will snap as each of the number aligns with a mark on the top of the lens, these are your f/ stops -- f/2.8 / f/4 / f/5.6 etc. You adjust these buy turning the ring.

On some electronic cameras, film and digital, you will find there is no aperture adjustment ring. This is because you adjust the lens opening with the camera's controls. How you do this will depend on the individual model. On my Nikon D200, there are two dials on the upper right side of the camera, one in front; one in back. The rear dial adjusts shutter spead and the front one adjusts aperture.

We could be more specific if you let us know exactly what camera you're using for your class.


Photography Tips: ISO (part 3 of 4)









iso digital photography5
iso digital photography5
iso digital photography5

Saturday, 18 April 2009

Digital Photography Wiki

1
digital photography wiki

How Do I Know What the Hyperfocal Distance Is?

I assume you've read last week's newsletter, but in case you want the digest version, here it is: The hyperfocal distance is where you can focus the lens to get the greatest possible depth of field.




Now that you understand the basic concept, you're no doubt wondering how to apply it. After all, knowing that the hyperfocal distance will enable you to capture uniformly sharp photos is pointless if you don't know how to determine the hyperfocal distance to begin with.




Well, I have some good news and some bad news. The good news: This information is readily available. The bad news: You might have to work a bit to get it.




It can help to understand some photography history. Old SLR film cameras used to have depth of field information inscribed right on the lens barrel, making the hyperfocal distance easy to determine on the fly. Check out this photo of my trusty old Minolta 55mm lens, which my dad handed down to me for my first film camera. This lens was probably manufactured in the 60s, making it as old (or older) than me. As you turn the barrel to focus the lens, the diamond-shaped marker showed you the actual focus distance--in this case, it's 10 feet, or 3 meters.




Surrounding the focus diamond are lines that show the depth of field at different f-stops. As you might expect, bigger f-numbers correspond to deeper depth of field. At f/16, you can see that everything from about 7 to 20 feet will be in focus. At f/8, you only get about 8 to 14 feet of sharpness. (It's hard to be precise when reading numbers marked on the side of a lens. I'm approximating.)




Finding the hyperfocal distance on these older lenses was a snap. Focus the lens until the distant depth of field marker for your desired f-stop just touches infinity. That's the greatest possible depth of field this lens can muster at this f-stop, and thus is the hyperfocal distance. In this example, if I focus around 20 feet, the depth of field at f/16 will go from 9 feet to infinity.




I think using these older lenses to visually demonstrate hyperfocal distance is a good way to learn, because it graphically shows that the hyperfocal distance at any given aperture setting is the minimum possible focusing distance at which the depth of field extends to infinity. Obviously, you can still set the focus farther away if you choose to, but if you do that, the range of sharp focus can't get any bigger, and so you're just wasting depth of field "beyond" infinity.




Modern Hyperfocal Cheats




That's nifty if your camera lens has depth of field markings on the barrel, but I am afraid those days are pretty much gone. So how do we figure out the best focusing distance using modern cameras?




Thankfully, there are a few tools at our disposal. You might start with an online depth of field calculator, like the excellent one at DOFMaster.




To use this site, start by entering your type of camera--this step is critical because the size of your camera sensor affects the effective focal length. Then, set the details about the lens you're using, including the focal length and f-stop. Now you'll need to do some fiddling. Enter a subject distance and check the near and far limit on the right side of the page.




If the far limit is not infinity, make it bigger. If it's already infinity, make it smaller. Try a few values until you just hit infinity. Now you know the distance you should focus on to get the best possible depth of field. You can also note the near limit of the depth of field, so you can be sure to position yourself for ideal sharpness of all the important parts of your photo.




Of course, you're not always taking photos within easy reach of your computer, so you can check out an online depth of field guide. If you have a smartphone, there are a wealth of free and inexpensive depth of field guides you can get as well. Recently, I searched for "dof" in my iPhone's app store, for example, and found a dozen candidates. I personally recommend the $2 DOFMaster, from the same folks that bring you the Web site I mentioned earlier. Not only does the program tell you the depth of field for any focusing distance you enter, but it can also display the hyperfocal distance with the tap of a button.




Leap of Faith




Shooting photos the hyperfocal way can be a little scary the first few times you do it. It's a bit of a leap of faith to take a photo when you're not focusing on either your near or far subject, but rather at some indeterminate distance in between. Intuitively, it feels like you'll just end up with an out-of-focus shot. Don't forget, though, that if you're shooting with a digital SLR, you probably have a depth of field preview button that you can use to ensure your photo will be sharp before you take the photo.




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digital photography wiki5
digital photography wiki5

Friday, 5 September 2008

Digital Photography Wiki

1
digital photography wiki

Canon Powershot G

Main specifications







Model







Release







date







Sensor







resolution, size, type







Lens (35 mm equiv)







zoom, aperture







Image processor







LCD screen







size, pixels







Memory







Size







WHD







(mm)







Weight







(body, g)







Photo







Notes







G1







September 2000







3.3 MP







2048 1536







1/1.8" CCD







34102 mm (3)







f/2.02.5







1.8" vari-angle







CF







120 77 64







420







First member of the Powershot G series.







G2







August 2001







4 MP







2272 1704







1/1.8" CCD







121 77 64







510







G3







September 2002







35140 mm (4)







f/2.03.0







DIGIC







121 74 70







481







Introduction of DIGIC processor. Introduction of internal neutral density filter.







G5







June 2003







5 MP







2592 1944







1/1.8" CCD







1.8" vari-angle







118,000







G6







August 2004







7.1 MP







3072 2304







1/1.8" CCD







2.0" vari-angle







118,000







105 73 73







380







G7







September 2006







10 MP







3648 2736







1/1.8" CCD







35210 mm (6)







f/2.84.8







DIGIC III







2.5" fixed







207,000







SD, SDHC, MMC







106 72 43







320







Introduction of DIGIC III processor. Introduction of a new lens brought a 1 cm macro mode and lens shift optical image stabilisation. Maximum sensitivity of ISO 3200. Face detection auto focus. The only G series camera to lack RAW mode capture. No Compact Flash support.







G9







August 2007







12.1 MP







4000 3000







1/1.7" CCD







3.0" fixed







230,000







Similar to the G7. Most notable changes were reintroduction of RAW image format capture, a better LCD, and a new sensor.







G10







October 2008







14.7 MP







4415 3312







1/1.7" CCD







28140 mm (5)







f/2.84.5







DIGIC 4







3.0" fixed







461,000







SD, SDHC, MMC, MMC+, HC MMC+







109 78 46







350







Introduced DIGIC 4 and a redesigned wide-angle lens with shorter zoom range. Increased LCD and CCD resolution. New higher-capacity Lithium Ion battery NB-7L.







G11







October 2009







10 MP







3648 2736







1/1.7" CCD







2.8" vari-angle







461,000







112 76 48







355







Reduced CCD resolution to 10 MP. Vari-angle screen. Improved noise control up to ISO 12800 in 2.5 MP resolution.







No remote capture support.







G1 to G6







Common features across the early G series were:







A fast lens (minimum F number of 2.0).







A flip out and twist LCD, along with a smaller status LCD on the top of the camera.







RAW image format capture.







1/1.8" CCD sensor.







Manual selection of aperture and shutter priority.







Custom white balance.







Built in flash.







Hot-shoe for external flash.







USB connectivity.







A Compact Flash card slot.







Availability of optional wide and teleconverter lenses.







Canon proprietary EOS shooting modes, allowing the photographer to select different exposure settings for different environments.







Included infrared remote control.







In-built neutral density filter from the G3 onwards.







Lithium ion battery.







G7 to G11







Canon Powershot G9







The G7 marked a major change in the G series. Previous G series models had featured a fast lens, RAW image format capture, and a tilt-and-swivel LCD. These were all considered hallmark features of the G series, but were removed or altered for the G7. Some of the major changes included:







Introduction of a lens with a minimum F number of 2.8, compared to 2.0 in other G series cameras. Although slower, this lens introduced improvements such as optical image stabilisation, a higher zoom range (6), and a macro mode that would focus as close as 1 cm. The lens would also retract completely into the camera.







Change to a fixed LCD rather than a tilt-and-swivel model. The fixed LCD was larger (2.5" versus 2.0" on the G6) and increased the number of pixels by 75%.







Removal of RAW image format on G7, but returned for the G9, G10 and G11.







No infrared remote control.







Change from CompactFlash to SDHC card storage.







Black, mostly metal, body.







Many of the changes made allowed the G7 to be significantly slimmer than previous G series cameras (e.g., the thickness of the G7 is 4.25 cm while the G6 is 7.3 cm), making it more portable.







The decision to remove RAW shooting support was heavily criticized. DPReview stated that they were disappointed with the loss of RAW format, while Luminous Landscape stated that the removal of RAW meant that too many technical decisions had to be made while shooting instead of post-processing. RAW support can be enabled on the G7 using a free firmware add-on.







The G9 was released in 2007. Among its features were restored RAW support, a larger LCD screen, and a 1/1.7" sensor rather than the 1/1.8" sensor on previous models, .







The G11, released in 2009, reintroduced the flip out and twist LCD.







Accessories







Canon Powershot G9 with custom accessories







The Powershot G series can accept a number of photographic accessories. Filters and other threaded lens accessories can be used with an adapter tube. Adapter tubes are available from Canon or third party suppliers. Most adapter tubes have 58 mm filter threads. In addition to standard filters and close-up lenses, the adapter tube can be used to attach wide angle or telephoto converter lenses to the Powershot G series. Starting with at least the G9 model, there is a bayonet mount on the front of the camera around the lens to directly attach lenses and accessories.







Powershot G series cameras have a standard threaded socket for mounting to a monopod or tripod. This can also be used for attaching the camera to various brackets or adapters.







With the hot-shoe for external flash, the Powershot G series can accept not only compatible flash units but also various connecting cords and wireless triggers. However, the Powershot G series is sensitive to the voltage produced by certain flash units, particularly older designs. Canon recommends that the maximum trigger voltage be less than 6 volts for any flash or accessory attached to the hot-shoe.







Flash compatibility is somewhat of an issue with the Powershot G series. Canon EX flashes are compatible but all EX features may not necessarily be usable. In particular, when the Powershot G is in manual exposure mode, the external flash is also in manual mode; that is, ETTL flash control is not operable.







See also







Canon PowerShot







Canon PowerShot A







Canon PowerShot S







Canon PowerShot SD or Digital Elph







References







^ Askey, Phil (September 2000). "Canon G1 Review". Digital Photography Review. http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canonG1/. Retrieved 30 October 2009. 







^ Askey, Phil (August 2001). "Canon PowerShot G2 Review". Digital Photography Review. http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canong2/. Retrieved 30 October 2009. 







^ Askey, Phil (December 2002). "Canon PowerShot G3 Review". Digital Photography Review. http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/CanonG3/. Retrieved 30 October 2009. 







^ Askey, Phil (July 2003). "Canon PowerShot G5 Review". Digital Photography Review. http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/CanonG5/. Retrieved 30 October 2009. 







^ Askey, Phil (December 2004). "Canon PowerShot G6 Review". Digital Photography Review. http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/CanonG6/. Retrieved 30 October 2009. 







^ a b Joinson, Simon (November 2006). "Canon PowerShot G7 Review". Digital Photography Review. http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/CanonG7/. Retrieved 30 October 2009. 







^ Joinson, Simon (October 2007). "Canon PowerShot G9 Review". Digital Photography Review. http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canonG9/. Retrieved 30 October 2009. 







^ Wan, Don (November 2008). "Canon PowerShot G10 Review". Digital Photography Review. http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/CanonG10/. Retrieved 30 October 2009. 







^ "Canon unveils PowerShot G11 high-end compact". Digital Photography Review. 19 August 2009. http://www.dpreview.com/news/0908/09081908canong11.asp. Retrieved 30 October 2009. 







^ http://www.luminous-landscape.com/reviews/cameras/Canon-G7.shtml







^ http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/CHDK







^ http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/specs/Canon/canon_g9.asp







External links







Wikimedia Commons has media related to: Canon PowerShot G







New models







Canon PowerShot G9 Canon USA website







Canon PowerShot G10 Canon USA website







Canon PowerShot G11 Canon USA website







Old models







Canon Press Release G3







Canon USA G5 info







Categories: Canon PowerShot camerasHidden categories: Wikipedia articles in need of updating


About the Author

I am an expert from China Computer Parts, usually analyzes all kind of industries situation, such as corning museum of glass , rapid prototyping equipment.



The Mystery of The Digital Orbs









digital photography wiki5
digital photography wiki5
digital photography wiki5