Cómo construir una lámpara para iluminación en fotos y videos
2iluminacion para fotografia digital5
iluminacion para fotografia digital5
I don't want to use a flash. I have been photographing live bands in nightclub settings. Most of my photos turn out grainy and my subjects who are moving on stage appear blurry. I have the best luck using the highest ISO and selecting the action setting on my camera. This helps with the blurriness but the photos are very grainy and not sharp. Any suggestions?
You didn't say what lens you're using so I'm guessing its the 18-70mm
f3.5/5.6 lens that came with the camera. While its not a bad lens, its not well-suited for low-light, non-flash use. Conditions such as those require a fast lens to keep the ISO settings down while giving you a faster shutter speed.
I suggest buying a Minolta Maxxum 50mm f1.4 lens.* A 50mm lens on your A200 will be an equivalent 75mm lens. How will that help? The f1.4 lens is 2 2/3 stops faster than the 18-70mm at the 18mm end (f3.5) and 4 stops faster at the 70mm end (f5.6). Lets look at a few hypothetical examples to see the importance of lens speed:
ISO 400
f1.4 @ 1/125 sec.
f3.5 @ ~ 1/20 sec.
f5.6 @ 1/8 sec.
ISO 800
f1.4 @ 1/250 sec.
f3.5 @ ~1/40 sec.
f5.6 @ 1/15 sec.
ISO 1600
f1.4 @ 1/500 sec.
f3.5 @ ~ 1/80 se.
f5.6 @ 1/30 sec.
As you can easily see, its all about lens speed. You will be able to keep your ISO lower which will improve your picture quality while still maintaining a faster shutter speed.
Another benefit of an f1.4 lens will be a brighter viewfinder which will help with composition and the camera's autofocus.
Of course, a fixed focal length lens isn't as versatile as a zoom but you can do what we did when zoom lenses didn't exist - move closer or farther away.
"Best wide-angle lens? Two steps backward. Look for the 'ah-ha' ". Ernst Haas.
When shooting, use the camera's built-in Noise Reduction program.
Shoot in Aperture Priority with the lens wide-open and let the camera take care of the shutter speed.
* Every legacy Minolta Maxxum AF lens made since 1985 is compatible with your A200. I found a Minolta Maxxum 50mm f1.4 at http://www.keh.com for $325.00 in "Like New" condition. KEH is a very reputable on-line seller. Here are some other reputable on-line sellers:
http://www.adorama.com
http://www.bhphotovideo.com
http://www.beachcamera.com
http://www.uniquephoto.com
Of course, you can always try eBay. I saw one 50mm f1.4 at a Buy It Now price of $259.00 and one in bidding, currently at $157.50.
I want to take a picture of a candle in a dark room (no flash)
problem is i get alot of flare from the flame
how can I prevent the flare???
the camera will be about 2 to 3 feet directly infront of the candle
You need to give more information. What kind of camera do you have? Is it just a small "point and shoot" digital camera, or do you have manual exposure control?
In order to take pictures indoors WITHOUT a flash, then you need to either do a long exposure, or at the very least you will need a slow shutter speed. So you really need to have a camera with completely manual shutter speed and aperture controls. If you only have a point and shoot camera, then you have very little manual control and you're probably not going to be able to take the picture you want.
The overall exposure of a picture depends on the lighting conditions, the ISO rating, the aperture, and the shutter speed. I haven't done long exposures with digital camera, but I have done it many times with film. And the principles are the same.
As a matter of fact, I HAVE taken pictures of candles. With 100 ISO film, I set the aperture at f/8 and did a 6 second exposure. That worked well. Of course, with a digital camera you can also change the ISO setting of the sensor. So try 100 ISO, set the aperture to f/8, and try a 5-10 second exposure and see how that works.
You need to also keep in mind that if you use a slow shutter speed or a long exposure, you HAVE to mount the camera on a tripod. With a slow shutter speed, the camera will pick up any movement and if it isn't absolutely steady, the picture will be blurry.
All this is IF you have a camera that has manual exposure control. If you just have a P&S camera, then you're out of luck. Point and shoot cameras are pretty much entirely automatic and you don't have that much control. They're just made for snapshots. You might be able to use a "night photo" option to take pictures in lower light, but it will probably end up looking very noisy and pixelated.
By the way, I think 2 feet is probably too close. 3 feet is going to be the minimum distance where you'll be able to get the candle in focus.
I have a dog that is very photogenic except his eyes are always bright green. Red-eye tools in photo editors don't work. He is a border collie and doesn't stay still ling enough to go without the flash!
The free photo fix site Picnik has a fix for "green eye" that is simple to use.
In a home environment, when taking a portrait using reading lights, how to achieve "studio like" turn out for portraints & still life? What equipments are essential to bring out proper lighting? Is it necessary to buy metering device, flash, transmitter, reflectors, etc?
Your best bet is to buy a cheap off camera flash and look at cheap wireless triggers. You can get a Yongnuo flash which is manually adjustable by power levels off eBay for about £40. A set of triggers, like RF-602's (1 transmitter + 1 receiver) will cost around £35. Buy a 5-in-1 reflector (£8) and you're good to go.
Whilst the continuous lighting solutions offered by others might be a tad cheaper, they're a pain to white balance and you'll quickly find out their limitations & end up with flash, particularly if you want to do a lot of this type of work. If you want to do location portraits for example, the hotshoe flash is the way to go for portability (batteries only, & lightweight).
You don't need to buy a light meter either at this stage.
I suggest you read Lighting 101 at the Strobist site (see right hand pane);
http://strobist.blogspot.com/
LOTS of information there on off camera lighting (principally hotshoe flashes)
I've been trying to find a great (mostly inexpensive) portrait studio in the Kansas City area. I have always loved going to JCPenny Portrait, but the past few times it has not been a very good experience when I take my infant niece (I take her once a month until she is a year).
To the point---I like the photos on Flash! Digital Photography, but does anyone know the prices to this place Is it expensive? Price ranges?
Any other portrait studios I should check out?
The problem with department store studios is that they have one setup for everyone and everything. That's what makes them inexpensive. Normally they have someone who is not a photographer or doesn't want to be one run the equipment...it's setup to be pretty much idiot proof.
You could try some of these....
1) Goto a college or photogrpahy school...see if you can find a student who wants to make a little extra money on the side.
2) Work out an arrangement with a pro studio to take your series of pictures...they may cut you a deal, they may not...but it never hurt to ask.
3) Church groups...it sounds weird...but the church I go to is always looking for volunteers to do things like this for needy families and such. You might be able to find a photographer willing to donate time to help you out.
Hope this helps.
When you are going to use your flash does the histogram offer any help? I can see how it does in non flash photography situations but it's not clear to me its effectiveness with flash. Sorry, novice digital photographer
Histograms are very difficult to use under any conditions.
It is much more useful when you are processing images using a program like Photoshop or Lightroom
To see how crazy a histogram can get, shoot one high key and one low key photo and see if you can get any really good information you can use during your shoot. Probably not.
If the image looks good on your LCD (with it set to zero gain), the image file will 999 times out of 1000 shots will be perfectly fine.
These 7 digital photography tips you can get started on your way to become an excellent photographer if you’d like.
#1. Digital photography tip: Learn your cameras settings
Chances are you shoot most of your pictures utilizing your camera's "automatic" mode. This will get you average results. If you are striving for great shots, you'll need to learn about other modes too. Take the time to read your camera's manual to understand when to use each shooting mode.
#2. Digital photography tip: Take more photos
Before going crazy buying the most expensive equipment right away, you had better take more photos because the more photos you take, the more you’ll know about what kind of camera to get when it’s time to upgrade. In other words, you can always delete the bad ones later.
#3. Digital photography tip: Busting the dust
Digital camera with removable lenses are prone to dust landing on the sensor. Static electricity around the sensor can possibly contribute to attracting dust particles, or other elements to this sensitive area of your camera. You can get rid of the dust is a camera blower brush, and tilt the camera down while blowing. Take care not to get any of the hairs snagged inside.
#4. Digital photography tip: Use a tripod
A tripod will keep your camera steady which will make your photos clearer.
#5. Digital photography tip: Shot your subject at different focal length, angles, and formats
Shoot your subject at different focal lengths - using the zoom on your photos will not only change how close your subject appears but it will also change the depth of field (ie the blurring of the background). It also allows you to shoot from different distances which can really impact how relaxed your subject is (there’s nothing better than a photographer in your face to make you tense up)
Shoot your subject from different angles - it’s amazing how much you can change a shot by getting on your knees or taking a few steps to the side.
Shoot using different formats - there are different ways to grip a digital camera. The two main ones are horizontally or vertically but you can also get into all kinds of diagonal ways to do it. Mix it up.
#6. Digital photography tip: Experiment with different ‘modes’
Even the most basic point and shoot cameras have different ’shooting modes’. These are usually things like ‘portrait’, ‘landscape’, ’sports’, ‘night’ etc. Sometimes it’s worth flicking through these to take shots at different settings. What these modes do is simply change the basic settings (like aperture, shutter speed, ISO) - all things that can change the look and feel of your shot considerably
#7. Digital photography tip: Play with your Flash
Try turning your flash off or forcing it to fire in shots. Sometimes adding flash to a scene where there’s lots of light behind your subject is essential (even though your camera might not think it needs it). This stops those silhouette shots where it looks like you’re trying to hide the identity on your subject.
For more details of the tips, please visit to Digital Photography Tips. Ohblitz's Photo World is a photography site about tips, tricks & techniques photography for both beginner and professional.
I'm looking for a compact digital camera, it will be used indoors for doing surveys in factories. Often it won't be possible to use a flash due to the presence of highly reflective stainless steel structures and plant. So I'm looking for the best performance camera in low light without a flash, plus it has to slip easily into a coat pocket. Any other features are not so important, except battery life. Any specific recommendations based on personal experience would be great. Otherwise is there a particular digital camera specification that tells me about its low light performance, so I can directly compare models? Thanks
I gather your three main criteria are low light sensitivity, small pocketable size and long battery life.
You will need a camera that you can manually adjust the light sensitivity to a higher ISO rating. I recommend a camera with an ISO of 800 or greater. The reason being, at higher ISO setting you may take a picture at a faster shutter speed, which translates to less blurry images. Beware though that the higher you set the ISO, the pictures will appear far grainier (the technical term is "noise"). Some cameras may have less noise at higher ISO ratings so try to make some comparison shots at the store using the same ISO speeds.
There are a few slim cameras in the market like Casio Exilim and Sony CyberShot. I have a Panasonic DMC FX01 which is a slim camera but the max ISO sensitivity is mere 400. Another camera I have is the Samsung NV11 which is slightly wider and bulkier than the first but is light sensitive up to ISO 1600. Both have incredible battery life but I can't recommend either one based on your needs. Take a look at Casio Exilim EX S10: it is small and light with ISO settings from 50-1600.
We all know several photo-related abbreviations and acronyms like:
MP = Megapixels
IQ = Image Quality
AF = Auto-focus
LCD = Liquid Crystal Display
TTL = Through the Lens
Then there are some that we use everyday, even though we might not know exactly what the stand for but "know" the meaning anyway, like:
JPEG = Joint Photographic Experts Group - a common digital file format
EXIF = Exchangeable Image File
RAW = RAW (!!!)
JD = This question is for you
What other abbreviations do you know of that make even less sense or are even less commonly used in daily conversations about photography?
What abbreviations do you think we ought to add to the lexicon?
I thought LV was where KK did TFCD.
I think the acronym EVIL (used for cameras such as the Lumix GF1 or the new Olympus Pen) is quite clever and yet quite true..
'Electronic Viewfinder Interchangeable Lens'
Those electronic viewfinders are indeed evil, ie BAD!!..
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